The Waterside Inn. Alain Roux

This was my second visit to the temple of Roux. I went last year in the summer and it was my meal of the year. Could this one be better?

It took us about 2 hours door to door which wasn't too bad considering the wife would drive back. So dressed in our best we turned up to be greeted by the happiest doorman imaginable. Which in turn made me equally happy. You see they park your car for you. Doesn't sound like much but it is, it's a lot. Your first impressions are so important to the staff here that the small worry of bumping into someone's Bentley is placed firmly on their shoulders. As first impressions go this couldn't be better 10/10

It's a lovely old place. Outside it's all old black beams over lumpy whitewashed walls,lead windows and a small slipway to the Thames full of ducks. On entering we were greeted by a huge Frenchman. As intimidating as this sounds it was ok because he was so so nice. He was so nice infact that I instantly fell for this big smartly dressed frenchy. He took us to the small bar and started chatting. Over champagne he opined "we do not know how long our life will be, so enjoy it to the most".

So we decided to. We ordered the tasting menu and I slipped in an extra course of 'pike quenelle' just because I'm greedy but he wanted us to try more. "you can change anything you want. You should try the rabbit". He made me feel all warm. He was even nicer than the doorman. 10/10

Canapés came. Puff pastry bread stick, prawn in batter on tartare sauce, welsh rarebit and margret duck breast on gaufrett potato with celeriac remulard. The thing is, some would say this is old fashioned, nowadays we get 'amuse bouched' by chefs. Canapés are so last year. Well last year this place had held 3 michelin stars for 25 years. The nibbles were perfect. 10/10

We were then walked into the dining room. Heaven. The back part is semi-circular and seems slightly raised(it's not) and the front part is all square(bear with me here). The room has been designed so that nearly all the tables have spectacular views of the river. Oh and what a river. The Thames is not usually a nice river , it has it's nice bits but you wouldn't normally call it pretty. Well I don't know what the've done but it's such a nice view that it's a bit breathtaking in its prettiness. Every single person in the room is smiling. All the staff are happy. The thing is, service is such a massive part of eating out that it is an inseparable part of the dining experience. Only this place and one other I have visited(le gavroche) have achieved an almost zen state of perfection when it comes to service. You can actually see it on people's faces. So down we sat. Immediately a smart young man with a wonderful smile walks over with a small table and places it next to the wife. "for your Handbag madame". Zen. Ommmmmmmmmmmmmmm........... 10/10

Bread selection is very nice. Warm and made in house. A fine small white baton was light with great crust and the small rustic brown bun almost perfect. Good butter is also replenished often (I like a lot). A larger selection would have got higher marks but hey,as we know I'm greedy. So only 8/10

Our first starter was 'Smooth Parmesan cream with truffle and pink fir apple potato. Served with an almond pastry straw'. A wonderful set cheesy custard sprinkled with bits of black truffle was paired with silky/starchy spud and topped with more black truffle. Simply stunning. Attention to detail here was amazing. The small potato pieces were turned to within an inch of their lives and the almond pastry was as light as it was crunchy and contrasted the smooth dish well.The truffle was outstanding given the time of year and worked amazingly well. 10/10

Next up was 'Warm escalope of fois gras with cardamom, glazed root vegetables verjuice and sultana sauce' I love pan fried fois gras. But it's greasy work and can be too heavy for some but served as it was here with earthy but sweet sultanas,beetroot and I think quince it's turned into something much lighter. The liver was top quality and the sauce pure clear sweet and powerful. A triumph. 10/10

'Pan Fried Lobster Medalion with a white port sauce and ginger flavoured vegetable julienne' was next up and so far the portion sizes were very good indeed. And this dish was the same. Half a tail and a whole claw pan fried then popped back into the 'separately' roasted shells (attention to detail swoon moment). The flesh was perfectly cooked and full of flavour but the stand out for me was the ginger and carrots under the crustacea. It was exactly the same as what sits under the scallop baked in its shell in Le Gavroche and it still amazes me how brilliant it tastes. The white port sauce was like a light bouillabaisse and the port came through nicely.The smell from the roasted shells was outstanding .10/10

Now as i said earlier i ordered an extra course 'Traditional Pike Quenelles with langoustine tails'. I wanted to try this dish as it hasn't been off the menu for about 18 years and I've never tried pike, but have been assured its disgusting. This is an old lyonnaise dish and has been a classic of that region longer than even Wikipedia knows. The pike is made into a mousse and poached. Well I was in awe when it arrived, three fat juicy langoustine tails surround the fist sized pillow of air and fish. All doused in a creamy rich butter heavy old-school crayfish sauce. The quenelle was as light as a cloud and tasted superb. An extremely faint earthy muddy taste from the pike was better than it sounds and the sauce rich and moorish from the piles of crayfish used to make it. Langoustine tails were the best I've ever eaten. 10/10

You get a choice of mains next and because the last time we came I had the duck (10/10 outstanding award for tableside carving) this time we opted for 'Duo of Seasonal Game with a Pumpkin subric, parcell of wild mushrooms and spinach, poivrade sauce' big silver closhes arrived and ceremoniously decapitated to reveal partridge and venison. Partridge breast with a rich game farce was sliced all neatly over the most flavour packed spinach ever.and it's partner venison had been pan roasted to greatness. A plate fully packed with flavour. The sauce was light yet rich and worked well. Portion size was again generous. The only slight let down for me was the pumpkin. Although cooked well I was unsure of its place on the plate and thought the texture did nothing for the dish. (I'm having the duck next time). 8/10

The end of the savouries was announced with a scoop of peppermint sorbet. I know it's almost a cliche but it does exactly what it says on the tin/pot/bowl. Well made and served at the perfect temperature it did its little cold job well. 10/10

Puds next and first up was 'teardrop of milk chocolate mousse flavoured with caramel, mango and passion fruit filling'. A well thought out desert this. All too often chefs snub milk choc in favour of its big brother dark choc but all too often it can become heavy and bitter. This was gorgeous. The mango and passion fruit lifted it to near ambrosial yummyness. 10/10

Last dish of the meal proper was 'warm orange soufflé with cranberries' and it was good. But I have to say I've had better. The cranberries were nice and tart and the orange came through well but it was all a tad too dry. For a perfect souffle try The Ledbury. ( I must add that at this point I was stuffed so it could just be me ) 7/10

In good weather you can take your coffee on the decking next to the river but it was tipping down so we stayed put. Petit fours were remarkable, individual and so tasty that I ate the lot. The nougat stood out as did a tiny custard tart.
Coffee is nice and hot and of good quality. The change of pace at this point was evident and your left to your own stuffed devices to reflect on eating too much.

To sum up then. The food is of the highest quality. Tradition here is everywhere and everything and you cannot fail to notice the level of detail achieved. Every tiny thing is done for you. At one point my napkin fell on the floor. I never even noticed until a new one was pronounced to my table on a silver platter. Most good restuarants fold your napkins when you go to the loo. Here they bring a fresh one on a plate and slide it onto the table. The staff make you feel loved. As you look about they smile at you like they love you. They want to be your best friend and they act accordingly. I can now imagine what it's like to be Brad Pitt.

Meal of the year and it's only bloody February. 10/10